August is the month people notice their hair feels different. Drier, duller, harder to style, and the fade that usually holds for a fortnight looks tired after ten days.
None of that is imagined. Georges Barbers has been cutting hair in Amersham through thirty-odd British summers, and the same handful of causes come up every year.
What does summer actually do to your hair?
Sunlight breaks down the proteins in the hair fibre. Research on hair photodamage has found that ultraviolet radiation causes both protein damage and colour change, with UVB associated primarily with protein loss and UVA with the fading of hair colour. Keratin, the protein that gives hair its strength, is the part that suffers.
In practical terms that shows up as hair that feels rougher, looks duller, tangles more and snaps at the ends. If your hair goes noticeably lighter over a holiday, that is the same process working on the pigment.
The other summer factors pile on top:
- Sweat leaves salt behind on the scalp and hair as it dries
- Chlorinated pool water strips hair of its natural oils and roughens the outer layer
- Sea water is drying for the same reason, and often comes with more sun exposure
- Air conditioning and long car journeys dry hair out further
Does a faded or shaved head need sun protection?
Yes, and it is the thing men most often skip. Hair provides physical shade for the scalp, so when you take the sides down to skin or shave the whole head, you are exposing skin that has not seen much sun.
The scalp burns fast, it is awkward to reach with sunscreen and it is easy to forget. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends seeking shade, covering up with clothing including a wide-brimmed hat, and applying broad spectrum sunscreen to all skin not covered by clothing.
For a faded or shaved head, that means:
- Wear a cap or hat when you are out in strong midday sun
- Apply sunscreen to the scalp, hairline, ears and the back of the neck if you are hatless
- Pay attention to the parting if you have one, which burns surprisingly easily
- Reapply after swimming or heavy sweating
A burnt scalp also peels, which makes the next haircut uncomfortable and can leave a fade looking patchy.
How do you stop sweat wrecking a fade?
Rinse it out. Salt from dried sweat sits on the scalp, and left there it makes hair feel gritty, encourages itchiness and gradually dulls the look of a sharp cut.
You do not need to shampoo every time. A rinse with plain water after training or a hot day is usually enough, with a mild shampoo every few days. Over-washing strips the scalp and tends to backfire, especially if you are prone to flaking.
A few habits that help through a hot spell:
- Rinse the scalp after sport rather than letting sweat dry in
- Use less product in the heat, because heavy wax plus sweat is what makes hair look greasy by mid-afternoon
- Let hair dry naturally where you can, rather than adding heat on top of sun exposure
- Wash caps and gym headbands regularly, which people almost never do
What about swimming pools and the sea?
Wet your hair with clean water before you get in, and rinse thoroughly afterwards. Hair absorbs water like a sponge, so soaking it in fresh water first means it takes on less chlorinated or salt water.
Rinsing afterwards matters more than anything you put on it. Chlorine and salt that stay in the hair keep working on it long after you are dry, and that is where most of the summer dryness comes from.
If you have a new piercing, keep it out of the water entirely. The NHS advises against swimming for the first 24 hours after a piercing, and pools, hot tubs, lakes and the sea all introduce bacteria to a wound that is still healing. The aftercare guide covers the rest.
Why does your scalp get itchy and flaky in summer?
Usually because of what is sitting on it rather than the heat itself. Dried sweat, sunscreen, product build-up and pool water all collect on the scalp, and a scalp that is not rinsed properly gets irritated.
The instinct is to wash more aggressively, which tends to make it worse. Stripping the scalp of its natural oils prompts more oil production and more irritation, and you end up in a cycle.
What usually settles it:
- Rinse thoroughly with plain water more often, and use shampoo less often
- Make sure you are actually rinsing the shampoo out, particularly around the hairline and behind the ears
- Cut back on heavy waxes and clays through the hot months
- Give a sunburnt scalp time to recover before your next cut, because clippers over peeling skin is unpleasant
If flaking is persistent, itchy and does not settle with a change of routine, that is worth speaking to a pharmacist or GP about rather than working through the shelf at the chemist. A barber can see the state of your scalp and tell you it looks irritated. Diagnosing why is a job for someone medically qualified.
When should you get cut before a holiday?
Two or three days before you fly, not the day before. A fresh cut settles in about 48 hours, sharp lines soften slightly and everything photographs better once it has had that time.
If you are away for two weeks, go slightly longer than usual on the sides. A fade cut tight the day before departure will be well out of shape by the second week, whereas a low fade or taper started a touch longer still looks deliberate at the end of the trip.
Should you change your haircut for summer?
It depends what you want the haircut to do for you. There is a genuine trade-off, and it is worth thinking about before you sit down.
- Shorter all over, or a tighter fade. Cooler, faster to dry, much easier after swimming and sport. The cost is a shorter shelf life, so expect to come in every two weeks, and an exposed scalp that needs sun protection.
- Length kept on top, tidier sides. More styling options and more built-in shade for the scalp. Hotter to wear, more effort in the morning, but it holds its shape for longer between visits.
Plenty of clients split the difference: keep some length on top and go slightly shorter through the back and sides for the hot months. If you are unsure, ask in the chair. The team will tell you how your hair type is likely to behave rather than sell you the trend.
How do you look after a beard in hot weather?
Keep it clean and keep it shorter than you would in winter. Sweat and sunscreen both collect in a beard, which is what causes the itching that most men blame on the beard itself.
Wash it properly rather than just rinsing, dry it thoroughly, and use a light beard oil to keep the skin underneath comfortable. Heavy balms are hard work in August.
A professional beard trim makes more difference in summer than at any other time of year, because a tidy shape sheds heat better and keeps the neckline from looking untidy as it grows.
Where to get a summer cut in Amersham
Georges Barbers is at 11 Chesham Road, Amersham HP6 5HN, open seven days.
Walk in any day for a haircut, a skin fade or a beard trim, with no appointment needed. Book online Monday to Friday if you would rather have a set time, or call 01494 432131. Ear piercing is by appointment only.
Clients come in from across Amersham, Chesham, Little Chalfont and High Wycombe.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does the sun damage your hair?
Yes. Research on hair photodamage links ultraviolet radiation to both protein damage and colour change, with UVB associated mainly with protein loss and UVA with fading. In practice hair feels rougher, looks duller, tangles more and is more prone to breaking.
Do you need sunscreen on a shaved or faded head?
Yes. Hair shades the scalp, so a skin fade or shaved head exposes skin that burns easily. Dermatologists recommend seeking shade, wearing a hat and applying broad spectrum sunscreen to any skin not covered, including the scalp, ears and neck.
Should you wash your hair every day in hot weather?
Not usually. Rinsing with plain water after sport or a hot day removes salt from dried sweat, with a mild shampoo every few days. Washing too often strips the scalp and can make flaking and irritation worse rather than better.
How do you protect hair when swimming?
Wet your hair with clean water before getting in, so it absorbs less chlorinated or salt water, then rinse thoroughly afterwards. Chlorine and salt left in the hair keep drying it out long after you are dry, which causes most summer roughness.
How often should you get a haircut in summer?
Roughly every two to three weeks for a skin fade and every three to four for a longer style, the same as any other season. Shorter summer cuts feel cooler and dry faster, but they grow out of shape sooner.
By the team at Georges Barbers, cutting hair in Amersham since 1991.